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      Dishmaster M76 Imperial Four - Installation

      Sink or Countertop Installation

      Things You May Need: 1-1/2" Basin wrench, adjustable wrench, arc-joint pliers, #2 Phillips screwdriver, bucket, towels, safety goggles, flashlight and a Helper to hold things in place from above while you tighten from below.

      Plug your sink drain(s) so that no small parts will go down the drain if you drop them.

      • Remove the screws from the faucet handles.
      • Remove the handles.
      • Remove the knurled cover retaining rings.
      • Remove the cover and face plate.
      • Remove the hose retainer and hose from the cover.
      • Place crowned steel washers, crown side first, onto the long end of the deck unions.
      • Place large black washers onto the long end of the deck unions and slide them up tight to the steel washers.
      • Place the O-rings in the grooves in the face of the short end of the deck unions. Applying a small amount of silicone plumbers grease or vaseline to the O-rings will help hold them in place. The O-rings MUST be used for proper installation. Failure to use the O-rings WILL cause the faucet to leak.
      • Loosely attach the deck union assemblies to the valve seats by screwing the union coupling nuts to the short end of the deck union assemblies. Do NOT tighten at this time..
      • Position the faucet in the holes on the sink/countertop.

      It is convenient to have a helper apply downward pressure on the faucet to hold it in place until completion of the next step. Place a couple towels on the bottom of the cabinet to cushion your back. Wear safety goggles.

      • Screw a deck union lock nut onto each deck union and tighten securely while your helper holds the faucet in position.
      • Firmly tighten the union coupling nuts. These are not tapered pipe threads and should not be over-tightened. The watertight seal is made by the O-rings.
      • Reinstall the hose clip and hose onto the cover.
      • Reinstall the cover and face plate.
      • Reinstall the knurled cover retaining rings.
      • Slightly engage the knurl on the handle with the knurl on the hot valve stem and rotate clockwise until the valve is just snug (counter-clockwise for cold side).
      • Remove the handle.
      • Position the handle in front of the stem at the 7 o'clock position (5 o'clock for the cold side).
      • Reinstall the handle by fully engaging the knurls.
      • Reinstall the screw.
      • Turn the handle fully clockwise to close the valve (counter-clocksise for the cold side).
      • Put the end of the hot supply line into a bucket. Gently open the shut-off valve and allow water to flow until foreign matter no longer comes out. Close the shut-off valve.
      • Repeat the procedure for the cold supply line.

      Important: for next 2 steps. The deck unions are ½” straight iron pipe. They are NOT tapered pipe threads. The watertight seal is made by the gasket on the supply line. Do NOT over-tighten the water supply lines.

      • Attach the hot water supply line to the left deck union body. Tighten only enough to seat the gasket in the supply line.
      • Attach the cold water supply line to the right deck union body. Tighten only enough to seat the gasket in the supply line.
      • Unscrew the aerator assembly from the end of the spout (counter-clockwise). Be certain to remove the black seal along with the aerator. It will sometimes stick to the spout rather than come off with the aerator.
      • Gently open the hot water shut-off valve. Examine the water supply line and fittings to make sure there are no leaks. If there is a leak, tighten the fitting enough to stop the leak.
      • Repeat for the cold water side.
      • Slowly open the faucet valve handles. It is not unusual for air or air/water mixed to come out until the water lines fully fill with water. Allow the water to run until the air is out of the lines and foreign matter has flushed from the lines. Close the faucet handles.
      • Check again for leaks. When all is well, re-attach the aerator assembly.

      Your new Dishmaster Faucet is ready to use. Your Dishmaster has been tested at the factory to ensure that it works properly. However, due to differing water pressure or other conditions in your home, your faucet could possibly drip at the spout. If so, please see the “Handles” section under Maintenance in the Manual.

       

       

       

       

       

       

      Wall or Ledgeback Installation

      Things You May Need: pipe wrench, arc-joint pliers, pipe thread seal tape, #2 Philips screwdriver, tape measure, level, bucket

      Plug your sink drain(s) so that no small parts will go down the drain if you drop them.

      • Wrap the 1/2" water pipes with 3 or 4 turns of pipe thread seal tape.
      • Place crowned washers, crown side first, over the eccentric shoulders of the wall union bodies.
      • Screw the wall unions onto the 1/2” water pipes. Be sure to keep the crowned steel washers on the shoulder of the wall union bodies.
      • As threads tighten, adjust unions so they are 8” on center and level.
      • Gently open the hot water supply shut-off valve and allow water to flow until foreign matter no longer comes out. Allow the water to run into the sink or a bucket.
      • Repeat for the cold side.
      • Remove the screws from the faucet handles.
      • Remove the handles from the faucet.
      • Remove the cover retaining rings.
      • Remove the cover and face plate.
      • Remove the hose retainer and hose from the cover.
      • Place the O-rings in the grooves in the face of the wall union bodies. Applying a small amount of silicone plumber's grease or vaseline to the O-rings will help hold them in place. O-rings MUST be used for proper installation. Failure to install the O-rings WILL cause the faucet to leak.
      • Loosely attach the wall unions to the valve seats by screwing the union coupling nuts to the wall unions. Do NOT tighten at this time.
      • After both coupling nuts have been attached to the wall unions, firmly tighten the union coupling nuts. These are not tapered pipe threads and should not be over-tightened. The watertight seal is made by the O-rings.
      • Reinstall the hose clip and hose onto the cover.
      • Reinstall the cover and face plate.
      • Reinstall the knurled cover retaining rings.
      • Slightly engage the knurl on the handle with the knurl on the hot valve stem and turn clockwise until the valve is just snug (counter-clockwise for cold side).
      • Remove the handle.
      • Position the handle in front of the stem at the 7 o’clock position (5 o’clock for cold side).
      • Reinstall the handle by fully engaging the knurls.
      • Reinstall the screw.
      • Turn the handle fully clockwise to close the faucet valve (counter-clockwise for cold side).
      • Unscrew the aerator assembly from the end of the spout. Be certain to remove the black seal along with the aerator. It will sometimes stick to the spout rather than come off with the aerator.
      • Gently open the hot water supply shut-off valve. Examine the fittings to make sure there are no leaks. If there is a leak, tighten the fitting enough to stop the leak.
      • Repeat for the cold water side.
      • Slowly open the faucet valve handles. It is not unusual for air or air/water mixed to come out until the water lines fully refill with water. Allow the water to run until the air is out of the lines and foreign matter has flushed from the lines. Close the faucet valve handles.
      • Check again for leaks. When all is well, re-attach the aerator assembly.

      Your new Dishmaster Faucet is ready to use. Your faucet has been tested at the factory to ensure that it works properly. However, due to differing water pressure or other conditions in your home, your faucet could possibly drip at the spout. If so, please see the “Handles” section under Maintenance in the Manual.

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