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      Dishmaster M76XL Imperial Four XL - Installation

      Things You May Need: 1-1/2" basin wrench, adjustable wrench, arc-joint pliers, 3/8” and 15/32” (12mm) open end wrenches, #2 Phillips screwdriver, bucket, towels, safety goggles, flashlight and a Helper to hold things in place from above while you tighten from below.

      Plug your sink drain(s) so that no small parts will go down the drain if you drop them.

      • Select the un-notched hose guide with escutcheon. Make sure the O-ring seal is in place on the bottom side of the escutcheon. Place that set in either the far right hole of the sink or countertop, or far left hole, based upon your decision for right-hand or left-hand installation.
      • Select the notched hose guide with crowned and rubber washers. Place that set in the center hole of the remaining three holes.

      It is convenient to have a helper hold the hose guides in place for completion of the next step. Place a couple towels on the bottom of the cabinet to cushion your back. Wear safety goggles.

      • From beneath the sink, screw a flange nut onto each of the hose guides. Firmly tighten the nut on the un-notched hose guide. On the notched hose guide, leave the nut just loose enough to allow the hose guide to be rotated from above the sink.
      • Remove the screws from the faucet handles.
      • Remove the handles.
      • Remove the knurled cover retaining rings.
      • Remove the cover and face plate.
      • Attach the copper tube assembly to the right side of valve body center section and tighten securely with a 3/8” open end wrench. The free end of the tube should point downward away from the faucet.
      • Attach one end of the clear plastic tube w/springs to the projection on the detergent tank.
      • Place crowned steel washers, crown side first, onto the long end of the deck unions.
      • Place large black washers onto the long end of the deck unions and slide them up tight to the steel washers.
      • Place O-rings in the grooves in the face of the short end of the deck unions. Applying a small amount of silicone plumber's grease or vaseline to the O-rings will help hold them in place. O-rings MUST be used for proper installation. Failure to install the O-rings WILL cause the faucet to leak.
      • Loosely attach the deck union assemblies to the valve seats by screwing the union coupling nuts to the short end of the deck union assemblies. Do NOT tighten at this time.
      • Lower the black detergent hose down through the un-notched hose guide until the brush handle rests in the hose guide.
      • From beneath the sink, push the free end of the hose up through the notched hose guide. Caution: the black hose must be free to move. Do NOT loop the hose around water supply lines or drain pipes.
      • Attach the black hose to the copper tube assembly and tighten securely. Use 3/8” and 15/32" (12mm) open end wrenches.
      • Slide the free end of the plastic tube w/spring over the flared copper tube on the hose assembly.
      • Position the faucet on the sink or countertop.
      • Rotate the notched hose guide as needed so that both the copper tube and plastic tube w/spring lie in the notch.

      It is convenient to have a helper hold the faucet in place until completion of the next two steps.

      • Firmly tighten the flange nut on the notched hose guide.
      • Screw a deck union locknut onto each deck union and firmly tighten.
      • Firmly tighten the union coupling nuts. These are not tapered pipe threads and should not be overtightened. The watertight seal is made by the O-rings.
      • Reinstall the cover and face plate.
      • Reinstall the knurled cover retaining rings.
      • Slightly engage the spline on the handle with the spline on the hot valve stem and turn clockwise until the valve is just snug (counter-clockwise for cold side).
      • Remove the handle.
      • Position the handle in front of the stem at the 7 o’clock position (5 o’clock for cold side).
      • Reinstall the handle by fully engaging the spline.
      • Reinstall the screw.
      • Turn the handle fully clockwise to close the faucet valve (counter-clockwise for cold side).
      • Put the end of one of the hot water supply line in a bucket. Gently open the shut-off valve and allow water to flow until foreign matter no longer comes out.
      • Repeat same procedure for the cold supply line.

      Important for next 2 steps: The deck unions are ½” straight iron pipe. They are NOT tapered pipe threads. The watertight seal is made by the gasket on the supply line. Do NOT over-tighten the water supply lines.

      • Attach the hot water supply line to the left deck union body. Tighten only enough to seat the gasket in the supply line.
      • Attach the cold water supply line to the right deck union body. Tighten only enough to seat the gasket in the supply line.
      • Unscrew the aerator assembly from the end of the spout. Be certain to remove the black seal along with the aerator. It will sometimes stick to the spout rather than come off with the aerator.
      • Gently open the hot water supply shutoff valve. Examine the water supply line and fittings to make sure there are no leaks. If there is a leak, tighten the fitting enough to stop the leak.
      • Repeat for the cold water side.
      • Slowly open the faucet handles. It is not unusual for air or air/water mixed to come out until the water lines fully refill with water. Allow the water to run until the air is out of the lines and foreign matter has flushed from the lines. Close the faucet handles.
      • Check again for leaks. When all is well, re-attach the aerator assembly.

      Your new Dishmaster Faucet is ready to use. Your faucet has been tested at the factory to ensure that it works properly. However, due to differing water pressure or other conditions in your home, your faucet could possibly drip at the spout. If so, please see the “Handles” section under Maintenance in the Manual.

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