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      Customer Reviews

      Based on 11 reviews
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      J
      J.C.
      Dishmaster Imperial 4 Faucet

      The new, 8 Inch Straight Faucet replaced the corroded and wobbly faucet with stuck diverter valve in my older Dishmaster Imperial Four perfectly. It looks great and restores full operation to the Imperial Four.

      T
      T.W.
      Dishmaster Imperial IV, Model M76, standard Spout assembly R & R

      The three (3) items ordered showed up in my US Postal Service delivery on Saturday, October 24, 2020, just when I hoped they would; all in a single package. The two black brushes, silicone grease, and gleaming new chrome spout (without any Cr plating flaws), were packed well and in perfect condition! After applying silicone grease to the O-Ring on the spout's center swivel barrel, and assembling that to the valve manifold; the threaded lock ring engaged the threads immediately. The spout went right on (didn't have to 'wrench' anything on); just snugging up the mounting ring finger-tight! No leaks any more from the spring-loaded, pull-up, diverter rod or the spout swivel area, just as I expected. The spout couldn't have fit any better if I'd made it on a metal lathe and silver brazed it up myself along with the spring-loaded and double o-ring sealed diverter rod and attached black PLS knob. I guess PERFECT WILL JUST HAVE TO DO! Thank you all again. Had the Dishmaster working like new in twenty-minutes.

      N.B. - I did notice in the text somewhere on your helpful website on the care required when assembling the R & L vacuum-metallized, molded, PLS hot and cold valve knobs onto their respective valve stems; and that they should be pushed on to their brass stems, engaging what was described in the text as "the knurling." I believe the word you wanted to use would be the brass stem's "splines" (which I think is better than the even the word 'fluted'). The procedure is to rotate the faucet lever CW or CCW such that the water flow is completely shut off (no drips) at the spout, and just before the handle's rotation 'stop' is reached (and not end up over-tightening the valve) placing excessive squeeze on its rubber seal. Knurling is that cross-hatched 'grippy' surface finish treatment rolled onto the brass lock rings using a tool held in the tool post of a metal lath. Lock rings are used to mount the faceplate to the manifold at the H & C valves and PLS housing; and to mount the spout swivel barrel. A very small cutter or endmill would likely be used to make the splines on the knob-end of each valve stem.

      R
      R.B.
      Fantastic customer service!!

      Fantastic customer service!!

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